The krilling grounds

Scenes of heartbreak at the krilling grounds

by Alistair Allan
by Alistair AllanMarine and Antarctic Campaigner
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Its 4:30am and there is a firm knock on my cabin door. Stumbling out of bed, I open the door. “We have the krill fleet 12 nautical miles away; we launch the fast boat in 30 minutes.” Immediately, adrenaline starts to course through me. We have arrived at the krilling grounds. I quickly pull on my waterproof clothing and head to the bridge of the ship. The radar is dotted with targets, each one a supertrawler hoovering krill out of the Antarctic ecosystem. Down on deck, the fast boat is already in the water, and before I know it, I’m outside in the Antarctic cold, descending the long boarding ladder and into the boat. Our vessel has stopped just out of radar range of the trawlers, meaning we have a bumpy 45 minute ride in the fast boat to arrive at the first trawlers.

As we speed across the frigid Southern Ocean, albatross and penguins wheel and dive around us. Whale blows start appearing all over the horizon. Then out of the light morning fog they appear: two hulking shapes, that even though they are still miles away, already seem huge. Steam and smoke billow off them as they motor forwards. They are krill super trawlers. These two are part of the Chinese fleet, the Shen Lan and the Long Fa.

 

Photo: Mika Van Der Gun

We head towards the Shen Lan. This is China’s newest krill vessel and at 130 metres long, it is the same size as the infamous Antarctic whaling vessel, the Nishin Maru. Except rather than targeting the ocean’s largest creatures, the Shen Lan is targeting one of the smallest.

Arriving at the Shen Lan, despite knowing it well in my mind, from pictures and reports, I am still taken aback. It is simply monstrous. It looks more like a cruise ship than a fishing trawler. The only giveaway is that, out of the gaping slipway that is the vessel’s stern, a giant net disappears into the sea.

Straight away, the Shen Lan starts to pull in their nets. We are here to document and expose this destructive fishery, and the vessels do not want to be photographed fishing. They pick up speed and start heading toward another two trawlers.

Photo: Mika Van Der Gun

It was here that we witnessed something that the krill industry doesn’t want anyone to see. These two trawlers, the Antarctic Endeavour from Chile and the Sejong from South Korea, were trawling right through a megapod of up to 200 fin whales. These whales congregate here because, just like these industrial trawlers, they are seeking krill.

These trawlers were using the megapod to find the krill. It looked as if the trawlers deliberately steered through the pod, knowing that there would be krill there.

Photo: Mika Van Der Gun

This is why this fishery is so destructive, they fish in areas where wildlife, like whales, penguinsand seals, expect to find food, as they have done for millennia. 

As whale populations recover after the ending of commercial whaling in Antarctica, the krill industry is rising to take its place. And the impacts of this were on full display. 

Sitting in a small 6-metre boat, surrounded by penguins, whales, and seabirds, I have rarely seen such a wild and alive patch of ocean. Whale blows as far as the eye could see. Chinstrap penguinschattering noisily in the water. Cape Petrels, Antarctic Prions and Southern Petrels clamberingbehind the trawlers, while the ever-majestic albatross soared over the tips of the waves. It is clear evidence of why Antarctica and the Southern Ocean should be afforded total protection. With a heart-wrenching sadness, this scene was shattered as a supertrawler, spewing the bright orange discharge of boiled and ground krill chugged by us.

Straight away, the Shen Lan starts to pull in their nets. We are here to document and expose this destructive fishery, and the vessels do not want to be photographed fishing. They pick up speed and start heading toward another two trawlers.

Photo: Flavio Gasperini

We will be in the krill fishing grounds for a long time. I hope to show the world that this fishery has no place in Antarctica, one of the planet Earth’s last great wild places.

Stay tuned to find out what you can do to help protect Antarctica and the Southern Ocean.

These trawlers were using the megapod to find the krill. It looked as if the trawlers deliberately steered through the pod, knowing that there would be krill there.